2  1/2 inches by 44 inches or WOF
-Cut into long strips
-Usually 40 fabrics per roll
-Equivalent to approx. 2 3/4 yards (2.6m) of fabric

Guideline for the number of rolls required for;

-1/2 - 1 roll will make a crib (30x40) 

- 1 - 1 1/2 rolls will make a Lap size (50x64), 

-1  1/2 -2 will make a twin size (70x85)  

-3 rolls will make a queen size quilt (90x108)

- 3 1/2 - 4 rolls for a king size quilt (110 x 108)

Amounts may vary depending on the pattern used. 

- 'Jelly Roll" is a trade marked name registered specifically to Moda, they may also go by the names of Bali pops, Design roll,  Strip packs, Roll ups...

 Please note: pre-cut name, fabric dimensions and pack quantity will vary by manufacturer. 

 5 inch by 5 inch
-Pre-cut squares
-Usually 40-42 fabrics per pack
-Equivalent to approx. 3/4 yard (0.7m) of fabric

Number of rolls required for;

-2 packs will make a crib (30x40) 

- 5 packs will make a Lap size (50x64), 

-8 packs willmake a twin size (70x85)  

-12 packs will make a queen size quilt (90x108)

- 14 packs for a king size quilt (110 x 108)

Amounts may vary depending on the pattern used.
-Note:  "Charm Pack" is a trade marked name registered specifically to Moda, they may also go by the name  Bali Snaps, Tiles ....

There are also Mini Charm Packs available that measure 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" pecut squares with 40-42 per pack.

 Please note: pre-cut name, fabric dimensions and pack quantity will vary by manufacturer. 

-10 inches by 10 inches
-Pre-cut squares
-Usually 40-42 fabrics per pack
-Equivalent to approx. 2 3/4 yards (2.6m) of fabric

Number of Layer Cakes required for;

-1 pack will make a crib (30x40) 

- 1 pack will make a Lap size (50x64), 

-1-2 packs will make a twin size (70x85)  

-2-3 packs will make a queen size quilt (90x108)

-2-3 packs for a king size quilt (110 x 108)

Amounts may vary depending on the pattern used.
-Note:  "Layer Cake" is a trade marked name registered specifically to Moda, they may also go by the name Tiles, Stack packs, Patty cakes.....

 Please note: pre-cut name, fabric dimensions and pack quantity will vary by manufacturer. 

 -Approximately 18 inches by 22 inches

At Moggies we do a metric cut of 20 inches by  21/22 inches
-A quarter yard of fabric cut into a rectangle
-4 fat quarters equivalent to 1 yard fabric 

Please note: pre-cut name, fabric dimensions and pack quantity will vary by manufacturer. 

Number of FQ's required for;

-8-12 FQ will make a crib (30x40) 

- 10-14 FQ will make a Lap size (50x64), 

-24 FQ  will make a twin size (70x85)  

-30-35 FQ  will make a queen size quilt (90x108)

-42-56 FQ for a king size quilt (110 x 108)

Amounts may vary depending on the pattern used and how FQ are cut.

 Please note: pre-cut name, fabric dimensions and pack quantity will vary by manufacturer.
 

 Approximately 9 inches by 22 inches. 

At Moggies we do a metric cut of 10 inches by  21/22 inches
-An eighth yard of fabric cut into a rectangle
-8 fat eighths equivalent to 1 yard fabric 

Fat eigths are an excellent way to put more colours into your quilt. they are perfect for adding to yardage or other precuts. 

A fat 1/8 can be cut into 3 (4) 2 1/2" strips,  or 4 (8) 5" squares

Please note: pre-cut name, fabric dimensions and pack quantity will vary by manufacturer. 

Our biggest question here at Moggie's is how do I get a good fit from my pattern.  With your correct measurements in hand we can help you find the right pattern for you.

• To select your pattern size, use your body measurements, not ready-to-wear size.
• Most patterns patterns are multi-sized to help you get a custom fit.
• Finished garment measurements are printed on the pattern tissue and on the back of many pattern envelopes. Compare these against the body measurement chart for your size. The difference is the amount of ease allowed.
• To take accurate body measurements follow the how-to- measure steps below. Periodically check your measurements for changes.
• To find your figure type, use height and back waist length measurements and descriptions in measurement charts to determine figure type.
•  Garment:  Use all measurement for correct size  
•  Dresses, Tops, Jackets &  Separates:   Bust: If you have more than 2 1/2" (6.3cm) difference between bust and high bust, select your pattern size by high bust* measurement
• Skirts & Pants:  Waist measurement: If your hips are two sizes or more larger than your waist, use hip measurement.   
• Between Two Sizes   Smaller size for a closer fit, or if you are small-boned. Larger size for a looser fit, or if you are large-boned. 

MISSES’: About 5'5" to 5'6" (165cm to 167cm) height. 

Example: Size 16 --- High Bust = 36", Bust = 38", Waist = 30", Hips = 40"

MISS PETITE: About 5'2" to 5'3" (157cm to 160cm) height. Misses patterns are made for a B cup with 2" (5cm) difference between bust and high bust measurement.

(Sizes-European = 42,  French  = 44)

WOMEN'S: About 5'5" to 5'6" (165cm to 167cm) height. 

WOMEN'S PETITE: About 5'2" to 5'3" (157cm to 160cm) height. Womens patterns are made for a C cup with 1" (2.5cm) difference between bust and high bust measurement.

Example: Size 16W --- High Bust = 37",  Bust = 38", Waist = 31", Hips = 40"

(Sizes-European = 42,  French  = 44)

MEN’S: For men of average build; about 5'10" height.

Example: Size 40 --- Chest = 40", Waist = 34", Hips (seat) = 41"

FIRST, you’ll need to know your accurate body measurements, not your Ready-To-Wear size.  The next section will guide you through taking your best measurements.    

SECOND, you’ll want to look at the envelope flap for the size chart which will help you know which size pack to buy. 

The charts match body measurements to sizes. This may be numbered or lettered sizing and on some patterns may be presented as bands eg Small = 8-10. Different pattern companies use different charts so don’t assume you’ll be the same size across all brands.

THIRD, you’ll want to check the finished garment measurements. The bust, waist and hip finished measurements are printed on the pattern tissue in the corresponding location. Plus certain finished measurements are on the back of many of pattern envelopes where space allows.

These will help you hone in on exactly what size to make, how to adjust the size and picture what the finished garment will look like before you start!

What is ease, anyway? Ease is the difference between the body measurement and the finished garment’s measurement at the same body part. But there are actually two types of ease – Wearing Ease and Design ease.

Wearing ease is the amount needed to actually wear the garment, so you can lift your arms, sit down, BREATHE etc. Some people prefer more wearing ease, for a looser fit; some prefer less wearing ease, for a more snug fit. This is strictly a personal choice. A good rule of thumb is 1-2″ of ease but more ease can be helpful if you have difficulty getting dressed or have a sensitivity to fabrics touching your skin.

Design ease is the amount given for a specific design to get a certain look. Vintage styles from the 40s and 50s often have little design ease, choosing a form fitting silhouette. Coats and Jacket have ease built in so you can wear them on top of other clothes. And some fashion shapes can be exaggerated and oversized. Big puff sleeves or balloon leg trousers spring to mind as the excess ease creates a dramatic shape beyond what you need to move in the clothes.

One last note about ease: Fabrics make a difference. Some fabrics have more give than others, so garments made out of these fabrics need less ease than others. This is especially true of stretch fabrics like jersey or knits. If your fabric is a woven with a little bit of stretch content and the pattern doesn’t call for that, you might find you can size down your make slightly.

Negative ease is when you’re using a stretch fabric with a pattern designed for stretch fabric. Here the designer has already considered the ease and will have actually removed some. Stretch fabrics have so much give that often the pattern pieces are designed smaller than your body measurements. This is called negative ease and helps achieve a close fit by counteracting the stretch in the fabric. This only works if you use a fabric with the right stretch percentage using the Pick-a-Knit rule on the back of your envelope.

GarmentUse this MEASUREMENT for best fit Dresses, Tops, Jackets and Separates BUST: Or if you have more than 2 1/2” (6.3cm) difference between and High Bust, select your pattern size using your HIGH BUST measurement*. Skirts & Pants WAIST measurement: (if your hips are two sizes or more larger than your waist, use HIP measurement.Maternity  SAME PATTERN SIZE you used before pregnancy.  Between Two Sizes SMALLER SIZE for a closer fit, or if you are small-boned, LARGER SIZE for a looser fit.

Misses patterns are made for a B cup with 2 1/2″ (6.3cm) difference between Bust and High Bust measurement.

*HIGH BUST measurement – follow our how to measure yourself guide to take a high bust measurement.

Height is a tricky one to do alone. You might find it helpful to mark a point on the inside of a door frame and then measure to that point afterward stepping away. A little piece of marking tape or a small pencil mark that rubs away is all you’d need.

Bust is the circumference around your ribcage at the fullest part of your bust. Again, remember to breath.

Upper Bust also known as High Bust is the measurement under your armpits, above your bust point. This isn’t a measurement listed on your pattern but a helpful fitting technique. Depending on the amount of difference between your high bust and your full bust you may benefit from a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) or a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA).

Waist is the point where you’re able to twist and bend from. Some people refer to it as the narrowest point of your torso, but that’s not the case for most figures! The easiest way to find your waist is to place the tape measure, or a piece of string if more comfortable, around where you think your waist is and then start to bend and move, the tape measure will want to sit in the perfect position so let it move up or down if it’s pulling that way. When you’ve found your waist you can measure it, or measure the piece of string you used!

Neck to waist is a handy one for working out if the bodice waist point on your pattern will fall at the right place. Especially if you’ve just located it in the previous step! Measure from the nape of your neck to your waist point. If you’re struggling to reach, try our handy tip with the door frame again to mark your body points and then measure when you step away.

Hip measurements aren’t always taken where your hips are physically found on your body. Here you’re just trying to record the part of your lower half that is the fullest. This could be around your hip or your rear.

If you’re seated for long periods of time or are a wheelchair user, you should take your measurements in a seated position. This is because our body mass shifts position when we sit and measurements can increase. You wouldn’t want to make something form fitting and discover it’s tight and uncomfortable as soon as you sit down in it!

Bicep – measure around the fullest part of your upper arm and use this to check close fitting sleeves won’t be too tight!

Neck measurement– measure around your neck gently and remembering to breath in and out. Now you can use this to check shirt collars.

Crotch length and front/back rise – When you’re making trousers it’s so helpful to measure around the full crotch sometimes called crutch in sewing circles. Take a piece of string and measure from front waist, to back waist and making sure your string isn’t riding up! If making “low rise” trousers, measure to the point you’d like them to sit. Rise is the length between the crotch seam and the waist point on a pair of trousers so you’ll want to know how long this is in the front and back. Using your string again, measure each half individually.

Thigh measurement – Another helpful measurement when you’re making trousers. This will ensure close fitting trouser legs won’t be too tight.

Shoulder point to shoulder point – last but not least, you may have a suspicion that you are wide or narrow shouldered from having straps that regularly sit in the wrong place or tops that fit everywhere except the shoulders. Measuring across from the hinge of your shoulder (you should feel a bone move when you raise your arm) you can then compare this measurement to your pattern and use a wide or narrow shoulder adjustment to solve any differences.

Now you’re ready to pick your pattern size!